Telling the stories behind the passionate pursuit of great beer since 2005.
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Thursday, September 20, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - What I Learned
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - The Process in Review
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - The Final Step, Tasting!
Tuesday, September 04, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Bottling Day
I think that it is safe to say that if I was not already sick of sanitation, by the time I reached the end of the bottling stage, I had certainly had enough of it. I was already looking forward to my next batch of homebrew, because I swore never to use bleach again for sanitation. I am looking forward to how much easier I perceive the sanitation aspect to be next time using something like Iodophor. Actually, this is something that made its way quickly to the top of my 'lessons learned' list here in my first homebrew experience....don't ever use bleach again! It's not worth, in my opinion, the aggravation.
Let's take it from the top. I arrived home from work determined to bottle since I was pretty comfortable that whatever wackiness occurred in the secondary had subsided (it had been 4-5 days since the last of the bubbling). Henceforth began the sanitation. The bottling bucket, the siphon, the bottling wand, the spoon, and my hands...ok, well, not really. Emptied the dishwasher, loaded it up with 2 cases of empty, pre-cleaned, and de-labeled bottles, and ran it on the heavy duty, hot cycle with heated dry. Oh yeah, and threw the caps into the sanitizing solution too. How happy was I that I take the time to rinse out bottles immediately after drinking the beer from them? It certainly made the cleaning/sanitizing of them much easier on bottling day.
Okay, with the sanitation thing out of the way (yeah, yeah, I know just how very important it is...still doesn't mean I have to like it!), I got started on moving the beer off of the sediment in the carboy and into the bottling bucket. That was after securely attaching the spigot, of course. I had the carboy set on top of the kitchen counter with the bottling bucket on the floor. Actually, it was on top of an old blanket which would protect the floor from spills, splashes, leaks, and other misfires.
I got the siphon action going in the same way as moving into the secondary, by filling the tube with water first, then submerging the racking cane below the beer level, then opening the siphon tube to allow the natural flow. The process of moving the beer didn't take more than 5-10 minutes or so. I got just about all of the liquid out. Some stayed behind with the sediment, but not enough to cry over.
With the beer in the bottling bucket, I first took a little over a cup of beer out of the spigot. A tiny portion was used for the final gravity reading (1.012, by the way...seemed about right), a cup was boiled with the priming sugar, and the remainder was tasted.
I hooked up the tube and the bottling wand to the bottling bucket while I was boiling the solution of fermented beer and priming sugar. It takes around 5 ounces of priming sugar for a 5-gallon batch of brew. After the solution reached a boil, I removed and allowed to set for just a few minutes. Then, using the sanitized spoon, I stirred (enough to mix it throughout, but not vigorously) the solution into the bottling bucket.
At this point, the bottling could commence. I sat on a stool below the bucket and had the prepared empty 12-ounce bottles next to me. Each bottled was filled by inserting the bottling wand into the bottle, touching the bottom to release the beer. I was able to fill the bottle to the top, because when the wand is removed the level goes down to approximately halfway on the neck, just perfect. Too much head space leaves too much room for oxygen to spoil the beer and too little head space leaves not enough room for the bottle conditioning and the carbon dioxide that's created as a result.
Filling one bottle at a time, then placing it on the counter with a cap perched on top, I had 41 bottles filled in less than 30 minutes. With all of the bottles lined up like rows of soldiers on the countertop, it was easy to pick one off at a time and use the capper to secure the bottlecap.
Each bottle was placed into an empty cardboard case of beer, which was then closed up and placed in the coolest place in the house, around 65F-72F. They sat there for about a week until I decided to crack one open to see how the bottle conditioning process was coming along.
p.s. No pictures of the bottling process since I was going at this alone and bottling is kinda a two-handed project.
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Racking to a Secondary Fermenter
Racking (in layman's terminology, moving or draining) to a secondary fermenter is not absolutely necessary. But, I figured it didn't involve that much extra effort, bought me a little more time before bottling, and increased the chances for a more clear, stable, and better beer. The jury's out on those last three claims until I pop open the first bottle. But, the big idea is getting it off the sludge of yeast and other matter that had fallen to the bottom of the bucket after the primary fermentation had completed and allowing the beer to condition a bit more.
After a week in the plastic bucket that served its role in the primary fermentation, the frothy crud produced during fermentation (aka krausen) had mostly fallen to the bottom along with other particles (hops, proteins, and other stuff that I'm sure I'm not aware of) that didn't get strained out on its way into the bucket.
How did I know that it was ready to be racked? Well, honestly, I didn't. The fermentation never got up to a vigorous level of activity, but krausen was being produced...and had subsequently fallen. Watching the airlock bubble at a couple of times per minute for a few days, then not at all for a couple of more days seemed to indicate that some level of fermentation had indeed taken place. Plus, when I took the hydrometer reading, the result was 1.020 (down from an OG reading of 1.050). So, even though there may still have been a bit more fermentation yet to take place in the secondary (which, by many accounts, is not surprising), I felt comfortable racking it to the carboy.
Getting the beer into the glass carboy serving as the secondary fermentation vessel started with, you guessed it, sanitation. The glass carboy, racking cane, plastic tubing, and airlock (to be used again on the carboy) were all soaked in the bleach solution to be sanitized.
After a thorough rinsing and drying of these parts, I started the process of moving the beer. I filled the plastic tube with water, attached it to the racking cane, submerged the racking cane in the plastic bucket full of beer, and allowed the siphoning to begin. I ran the water out of the tube into a plastic cup until the beer started running through, then took a sample from the tube for a hydrometer reading, then shoved the tube to the bottom of the glass carboy. I was careful to minimize the splashing, or aerating of the beer, as it siphoned over from the plastic bucket. With the fermentation mostly completed, there was no need to get more oxygen into the beer.
If I thought this whole process of making beer required patience, then the secondary fermentation was the true test. The plan was to leave it in there for two weeks before bottling it. I kept the carboy covered with a brown paper bag (with a hole cut in the top for the airlock and neck to stick out) and kept the temperature regulated between 68-75F (best I could do in the northeast's summertime). After 8 days, things got interesting. Days 9-12 all of sudden brought more vigorous bubbling in the airlock than it had experienced in the primary. It coincided with a dramatic shift in the weather...cool, damp, rainy conditions. Approximately 3/4" of loosely packed bubbles sat on top of the beer for almost 2 days as it bubbled through the airlock several times a minute. Then, it began to subside and the bubbling slowed.
Days 13-17 saw no activity whatsoever. This led me to believe that it may be ready to bottle. Adam loaned his "beer thief" to me so that I could taste the beer and take a hydrometer reading. I did not, but planned to do so before making the decision to bottle the beer.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Chilling the Wort
Without having a good brewing setup at home, I needed to move the 3.5 gallons of wort to the laundry room to be chilled and incorporated with the reserved 1.5 gallons. I set the kettle on top of the washing machine, rigged up the wort chiller to the laundry basin, and began the chilling process. Surprisingly, for one of the hottest weeks of the year, it took barely 15 minutes to bring the wort down to around 70F-80F.
I then set a strainer over the top of the plastic fermenting bucket and vigorously poured the wort into the waiting 1.5 gallons of reserved water. I took a small sample for a hydrometer reading (1.050, by the way), then pitched the dry yeast from the supplied packet.I then sealed the lid on top of the bucket and, covering the airlock hole, shook and rocked it around for about 30 seconds. Lastly, the airlock was put on and filled with vodka. Water can be, and is often, used in the airlock. Alcohol further provides for assurances for a sanitary environment, but in some opinions is hardly necessary.
That's it. I placed the bucket in area that wouldn't go above 75F and let it sit for a week.
Over the following week, the fermentation began. Check back again soon for more about the primary fermentation stage.
Monday, August 20, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Boiling the Wort
After adding the extract and returning to a boil, the dark extract was now officially "wort" and on its way to becoming beer. Nothing too exciting happens during this boil. I stirred occasionally, perhaps just out of boredom.
I've heard people talk about hot-side aeration and its potential to introduce off-flavors. Although this seems to be more of a topic for all-grain brewing, I took care not to stir too often or too vigorously. But even though I tied a good luck goat (the Ayinger goat to be exact) to the spoon, maybe I was a bit too vigorous as the spoon fell into the boil!
As the boil stage neared completion, following Adam's advice I placed the wort chiller in the boiling pot approximately 15 minutes before the scheduled end of the boil. This was a way to sanitize the wort chiller, which I had already given a once-over in the sink. With about 5 minutes remaining in the boil, I dropped in the aroma hops.
Check back again soon for the next stage of chilling the wort.
Sunday, August 12, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Sanitizing & Boiling
After laying out the ingredients and equipment, I figured my first step was sanitation. It was, but I quickly learned that this can be done while bringing the water to a boil. See, this much water takes a while to boil and you know that thing about a watched pot, right?
While bleach worked just fine, I may consider using something else to sanitize in the future. With bleach, I needed to very careful to control splashing. Also, thoroughly rinsing after soaking the equipment was mandatory so not to leave any bleach behind. And, while time wasn't a factor, when using bleach to sanitize, it's recommended to allow the equipment to soak for approximately 30 minutes. Using an alternative like Iodophor would require less time soaking, less care in handling, and no rinse cycle.
Check back again soon for more information about the boil, the malt, and adding hops to the boil.
Friday, August 03, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Setting Up
"Buy a man a beer and he'll waste an hour, teach a man to brew and he'll waste a lifetime."
Let's get this all setup and the party started. Brew Day is tomorrow. I've got my AHA membership card. The Homebrew Song (from The Brewing Network) is playing in the background. And, I've got my homebrew gear all laid out in front of me. Alright now, I realize that only the equipment and ingredients are necessary. Oh right, and a good quality beer to drink while making the homebrew. Before this first brew day of mine, I've re-watched the extract homebrewing DVD from Basic Brewing Radio. I've talked over the process with Adam, and he's gonna join me to give pointers along the way. And, I've read through the recipe and brewing notes again, just like I would do with a food recipe. Now I need to ask all of you homebrewers out there: "What is the one thing that I should be mindful of during my first homebrew experience?" "What is the most likely thing for a newbie to screw up?" In coming posts, I'll describe the various stages of my first homebrewing experience. Maybe throw in a few pictures too. First up, sanitation...oh, how important is this step? Oh, so very important!
Monday, May 14, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Buying the Equipment
In the last episode of my maiden homebrew voyage, I discussed my decision to go with the malt extract approach and a nut brown ale recipe. While I was at Home Sweet Homebrew getting the recipe ingredients, it would make sense to get the equipment too, now would it not?
George and Nancy turn over quite of few of these startup kits as they've helped countless first-time brewers get started over the 20 years they've been in business. In no time, George gathered up the various pieces of equipment that I would need to brew my first batch. For $49.95, the kit includes: a 7 gallon fermenting bucket; a racking tube and siphon hose; an airlock and stopper; a hydrometer; a capper; bottle caps; a bottle filler; recipes and brewing instructions. For an additional $10, I purchased a 5 gallon glass carboy. A boil kettle, spoon, and thermometer were not included.
As far as additional equipment goes, I think I'd like to have a dedicated oversized brewpot (I'm not really big on cleanup!), a wort chiller (to help speed along the cooldown process post-boil), and whatever other must-haves any of you might think to recommend.
I don't think it will be long before I make two advances. One is to go to an all-grain process. Not because I'm convinced that it's a better process, but more because I like to get more in touch with all the raw components of brewing. The second is to keg my finished product. Not that having portable bottles of homebrew isn't nice; this is primarily because there's nothing like having a keg of homebrew in the refrigerator at the ready to tap of a fresh glass of beer.
Thursday, May 10, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Choosing the First Recipe
It's been a while since I last visited my maiden homebrewing project here. My next steps I said would be to decide on a recipe and a process. In other words, would I go for the extract or the all-grain approach to brewing right out of the gate? Then, which recipe would I choose as my first?
The first decision was the more difficult one and one that I still wrestle with. I chose to start with extract brewing just to get started and as a way of cutting my brewing teeth. Not that it's all that big of a deal, because to move to all-grain after a few batches will simply require additional equipment and more time.
The reason I say that I wrestled with the decision is that, in the kitchen, I'm the kind of person who wants to take as few shortcuts as possible. I like making food from the most raw ingredients possible. If a meal takes several hours, even prepping the day before, to make then that is fine with me. To include some homegrown ingredients is even better. So, it might make sense that I would enjoy crushing and mashing my own grains (okay, okay not really my own grains...I'll leave the growing of the grains up to someone else).
So, I've chosen to begin my brewing journey with the extract process. Next is to determine my first beer style. While it sure is tempting to go after something like a Belgian Strong, English Pale, or American IPA, I chose the Nut Brown Ale recipe for two reasons. First, it's one of the advertised prepackaged kits at Home Sweet Homebrew. So much for not taking shortcuts, eh?! Second, one of my friend Mark's good ol' standby recipes that he has down to perfection is the nut brown recipe. While he said this was an all-grain recipe that he crafted himself, I still thought I should give this tried and true style a shot.
The ingredients package includes: malt extract; priming sugar; bittering hops; aroma hops; and yeast. Water was not included, oh well!
I'm anxious to get brewing, so for less than $100 I bought the start-up equipment and the ingredients that I need for extract brewing. Next posting, I'll discuss more about the equipment that I purchased.
Friday, March 02, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Gathering Information
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Getting Started in Homebrewing - Why?
Friday, December 01, 2006
My First Homebrew Journey
Step 1 - Why do it?
Step 2 - Utilizing Available Resources & Information
Step 3 - Choosing the First Recipe
Step 4 - Buying the Equipment
Step 5 - Setting Up to Get Started
Step 6 - Sanitation & Boiling
Step 7 - Boiling the Wort
Step 8 - Chilling the Wort
Step 9 - Primary Fermentation & Racking to Secondary
Step 10 - Bottle the Beer
Step 11 - Tasting the Beer
The Process in Review
Lessons Learned